Greyhounds enjoy a rich heritage dating back over 4,000 years. From the beginning of their history, greyhounds have always been highly regarded. Initially bred to be hunting companions exclusively for noblemen, this universally admired breed also was a favorite of both Cleopatra and England's Queen Elizabeth 1. Their unmistakable figure graces the walls and tombs of ancient Egypt. In Arabia, too, the sheiks admired the physical attributes of their sleek companions. Greyhounds were introduced in America in the 1800's to help farmers control the jackrabbit population and greyhound racing soon developed as a result of popular neighborhood competitions.
Before you get your Grey: Leash or Fence? First Aid Kit Grooming Needs Toys Food Bowls Cleaning Supplies The Ride Home Adjustment Period
Training your Grey: Stairs Housebreaking 101 Scheduling Housebreaking-Part 2
Housebreaking Checklist
Once your Grey is home: Anxiety Issues Be Positive Getting Comfortable Diet and Exercise Caring for Diarrhea
Grey Speak: Glossary
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LEASH or FENCE - No Greyhound should EVER be allowed to run off lead in any area that is not securely fenced. Greyhounds have been bred and trained for thousands of years to chase. That instinct is stronger than anything you will ever be able to teach him. If you let your greyhound run loose and a rabbit (or a squirrel, bird, piece of paper, etc.) catches his eye, he's gone and no amount of calling or commanding him to come back will make him stop and come back to you. He won't stop until he's either caught his prey or lost sight of it. But by that time he may well have also lost sight of you, too. A greyhound can cover a lot of distance in less than a minute. Being a sight hound, he'll have no idea how to find his way back to you if he can't see you and he doesn't know how to retrace his own steps by scent, even worse, that path in pursuit of his prey may lead him across roads, into traffic or other dangers. Your greyhound won't even see that oncoming car until it's too late, all he sees is what he's chasing so DON'T trust him not to chase!
FENCED YARD - A securely fenced yard is wonderful, but not an absolute necessity. If you don't have a fenced yard you must be willing to walk your dog several times a day, no matter how rotten the weather is or how tired or ill you may feel. If you DO have a fenced yard you want to be sure that you can lock any gates or other entrances in/out of it so that they aren't accidentally left open allowing your greyhound to escape the safety of his fence.
PREMIER MARTINGALE COLLAR & LEASH - Because Greyhounds necks are muscular and larger than their heads most can easily slip off a regular buckle type collar. A Martingale or "sight-hound" collar is designed with this body type in mind and is much harder for a greyhound to slip off.
ID TAGS - Tags should also be kept on your dog's collar at ALL times. You will be required to get one with your name, address and phone number on it if you adopt a greyhound.
CRATE - These are not an absolute necessity but they are highly recommended, at least for the initial transition to home life. Many Greyhounds prefer having their own space and love their crates. After all, most of them have spent much of their lives in crates. For home purposes, the crate should be as large as you can get. If you need to use a crate for car travel, however, an airline crate that is just big enough for the dog to stand up and turn around in is best. Recommended size is: At least 40" long, 27" wide and 30" high (Vari-Kennel 500).
SQUAWKER - A Squawker or prey call is what trainers use when preparing a greyhound to race, and then inside the lure during his racing career. It makes a sound that the greyhound associates with his prey, getting treats, and a fun race. A squawker is invaluable if your greyhound were to ever get loose or lost, it is one of the few items that could help you call them back to you and is much more effective than voice alone.
FIRST AID KIT - Greyhounds are pros at getting "owies". The great majority of their injuries at home are simple enough that most owners can treat them without having to make a visit to the vet. Our dogs' first aid kit contains:
Vet wrap (narrow & wide) Gauze (rolled)
Scissors Saline Solution
Tweezers Adhesive tape
Immodium AD Cortisone cream
Gauze pads Peroxide
Triple Antibiotic Ointment
Antiseptic spray
Bufferin or Ascriptin Benedryl tablets
You should learn as much as possible about animal first aid, but the most important thing to learn is when to let the vet handle it. Keep your vet's daytime and emergency phone numbers readily accessible and when in doubt, USE THEM!
NAIL CLIPPERS - There are several types available, ranging from $3.00 up to $48.00 depending on the type you choose. The main thing you want is easy to use, since you should plan on trimming nails at least every other week.
MUZZLE - Muzzles are a must for most Greyhound owners. They're indispensable for keeping them safe from each other when three or more are turned out together. They're also very handy in the house, especially during the settling in stage. A muzzle will prevent your dog from chewing on the furniture (or the cat!) while you're not home. With some dogs a muzzle is a sufficient substitute for a crate. Greyhounds are used to wearing plastic basket muzzles, and an undamaged and properly adjusted muzzle will not be uncomfortable for them. They're simple and cheap insurance against any number of disasters.
SHEDDING BLADE / HOUND GLOVE - A shedding blade is used to groom out the dead hair and reduce shedding. Most greyhounds who come in from the track or farm have what is called "kennel coat" which is a thick coat of hair that tends to be a bit longer and shaggier than that of a greyhound who's been in a home for a few months. This "kennel coat" will shed out within a few months of their arrival and leave behind a glossy smooth coat of hair that is much sleeker and not as "fuzzy" as their kennel coat. Once the kennel coat is gone, most greyhounds shed very little, and grooming with a hound mitt several times a month should all but eliminate shedding.
CHEWIES & STUFFIES - Cow Hooves are recommended, they are safer than rawhide and will satisfy even the most aggressive of chewers desire to munch on something yummy. Stuffies are usually something new to a retired racer and they have to learn how to play with them. If you have other dogs who already play with stuffies this should happen pretty quickly, if not, it's up to you to teach your new hound what a stuffy is all about. Stuffies with squeakers inside are usually preferred since they give the dog the satisfaction of a squeak when they bite them.
STAINLESS STEEL OR CERAMIC BOWLS - One bowl for food and the other one for water (3 quart bowls work well). A raised feeding station is also recommended, you can make your own using a milk crate, or 15" plant stands that you can get from most hardware stores or home improvement shops.
CLEANING SUPPLIES - As with any new pet, your retired racer will need to learn about your house, your schedule and how to ask to go potty. In the initial learning phase, there are sure to be a few accidents. It's best to be prepared in advance by having some Natures Miracle (or other enzyme cleaning solution) and Spot Shot which is wonderful for removing anything from blood and vomit to crayons. Remember, do NOT scold the dog for having an accident in the house if you are not there to correct the dog WHILE IT IS HAPPENING and then immediately take them outside to finish the act and PRAISE them for doing it in the right place. If you discipline a dog for having an accident after the fact, they will only be confused, and will have increased anxiety about their need to go to the bathroom, which can lead to more accidents and other types of behavior problems.
THE RIDE HOME - Try to remember that your greyhound has not spent much time in a car, and you are a stranger to him (although not for long!), so on that car ride home he has good reason to be nervous. Reassure him with your voice, calm and soothing, and with your actions, steady & slow. Make sure right after the car ride home and BEFORE you go into the house for the first time that you take your greyhound for a walk around the yard first and let him go to the bathroom.
NERVOUSNESS - You may feel a little nervous about getting your greyhound. Remember your greyhound is much more nervous than you are, and that nervousness manifests itself in a variety of ways He might pant, whine, move around a lot, have a drippy nose, sweaty paws, and start getting flaky skin and diarrhea. These are all common symptoms and will disappear once the dog feels more secure and calm, you just need to be patient.
The length of time it takes your Greyhound to become accustomed to and relaxed in your home can vary tremendously. Some will walk right in and act as if they had lived in your house all their lives, others will be afraid of everything and the majority fall somewhere in the middle. Remember to be sympathetic to your new family members situation he/she has had a traumatic upheaval the routine of track or farm life and it may take him some time to adjust.
It has been said that bringing a retired racer into a home for the first time is like dropping you or me on top of a mountain in Tibet, EVERYTHING is new and different, the food, the people, the sights, sounds and smells. As you can imagine your new family member has a lot to learn, so naturally it can be a bit frightening. But in all except for the rare worst cases, a few weeks (often just a few days) of patience and understanding will get you and your hound through it and soon your new pet will grasp what you expect from him.
Don't be surprised if a hound you were told was playful and friendly seems to be subdued for a while when he arrives in your home. Greyhound personalities tend to "blossom" over the first few months at home, even if they seem perfectly relaxed right from the beginning. As they begin to relax and feel secure with you, they'll let more and more facets of their character shine through. This can be good and bad. A dog that started out on his best behavior in an effort to fit in may let his "rascally" side begin to show during this period. But if you have consistently but lovingly established from day one that YOU are the top dog and that there are rules he must learn and obey, you shouldn't have much trouble.
Many Greyhound owners thoroughly enjoy watching their initially quiet dog turn into a bit of a scamp. Just be careful not to let it get out of hand. Remember, there is a whole network of people willing and ready to help with whatever problems might arise. All you have to do is ask. As your greyhound becomes more secure with his new home and begins to trust you, you'll see his personality emerging. He might steal your possessions and hide them, or smile at you when you come home, or start demanding access to the softest spots in the house. These are all signs that your greyhound is adjusting and that you now have a confident new member of your household.
Because Greyhounds have lived in kennels and on farms all their lives, things we take for granted as "every day" will be new and sometimes scary to them. Few have ever had to negotiate stairs. Ceiling fans, linoleum floors, sliding glass doors and any number of other things can present challenges to them. If you have sliding glass doors you should get several vinyl decals and stick them on the doors at the dogs eye level until he learns the glass is there. Trying to go through glass they didn't realize was there has injured many Greyhounds.
Teaching your greyhound how to walk up and down stairs is really pretty easy. Remember that this is new to your dog and you have to be patient and persistent. This is not the time to baby your dog. Encourage but do not coddle. Dogs can read our facial expressions so remain calm and smile them through this.
* Let your dog lean against your leg. Start at the bottom stair and grip the dog’s collar. You may need to put the dog’s front legs on the step.
* Start your walk up the steps still holding the collar. You can encourage your greyhound by saying "come on let's go up". If the dog does not respond get behind and put the rear legs on a step also. Slowly alternate the front and rear legs up the stairs.
* You are now at the top. Praise your dog in a high pitch voice and let him/her relax for a few minutes.
* Grip the collar again and start down the same way.
* Praise again when you reach the bottom.
* Go through this up and down sequence at least one more time.
* REMEMBER - Always end a training session with a positive action and reward!
If your stairs are not carpeted make sure your greyhound’s nails are as short as possible so they don't slip on the steps. If your stairs are the open-backed type or very steep, please allow your greyhound a little extra time to learn these. If you find that the dog is not voluntarily following you up and down, repeat this exercise each day for the next few days. Within a short period of time your greyhound will fly be navigating and down the stairs with ease, after all YOU are up (or down) there!
Crate training is the most effective way to housebreak your greyhound. Greyhounds are raised in crates and are very comfortable with them. The basic principle is that greyhounds are very clean animals and will not eliminate where they sleep. Therefore, if a greyhound is in the crate it will not eliminate in either the crate or the house. The following are the basics of crate training:
Crate Size - TRGAP will recommend the appropriate size for your greyhound prior to the time of adoption. At least 40" long, 27" wide and 30" high (Vari-Kennel 500).
Location - Place your crate in a room that is familiar to the dog. A remote location such as the basement or a room that is far away from family activity can make your dog feel as if it has been abandoned.
Rule - If you can't watch your dog crate it. Do be alert and don't let your dog out of your sight until you are confident he/she is housebroken.
Punishment - Don't punish for accidents. Above all don't use the crate for punishment. A simple NO in a low pitched voice is all that is needed.
Schedule - Keep to a regular feeding and walking schedule (even on the weekends). The following two sections will walk you through the fundamentals of housebreaking using a crate.
* Feed at set times and walk your greyhound at set times. Do not vary your schedule, even on the weekends. At a minimum, your greyhound should be walked first thing in the morning, first thing when you arrive home, last thing before you go to bed and 15-30 minutes after each meal.
* Feed the same food all the time. Do not vary the diet, do not feed table scraps or an overabundance of between meal snacks (limit it to 2 small treats a day).
* Watch your pet’s stool. If it is too loose, cut back on the amount of food by 1⁄4 cup per feeding until it becomes firm. For more information about feeding visit the care & feeding section of our guide.
* Take your dog out on a regular schedule. Walk in a small area where you want the dog to go to the bathroom. Dogs like to relieve themselves in familiar surroundings. Limit bathroom walks to 10 -15 minutes so the dog can understand what you expect of him/her. Save the long walks for recreation time. After the dog eliminates PRAISE!!!
* If your dog does not relieve himself outside, confine it to its crate for another 30 minutes and then take him/her back out. If the dog does not relieve himself then confine again for another 30 minutes. Remember to limit your bathroom walks to 10 - 15 minutes.
* REMEMBER - Always end a training session with a positive action and reward!
Once your pet does urinate and defecate outside then you can give them some freedom in the house, keep an eye on them. Until you are confident that your pet is completely housebroken do not let your pet out of your sight. If you cannot watch your dog, crate it. Too much freedom given too soon will force you to start the housebreaking process all over again, don't try to rush it.
If you catch your pet in the act of an accident, loudly say "no!" or "stop!", clip on their leash and take them immediately outside to their toilet area. While your dog finishes: PRAISE!
Clean the accident area with an effective cleanser to remove the scent of urine or stool from the carpet or floor. We recommend Nature’s Miracle cleaning solution. Do not let your dog watch you clean it up. It is available in most pet stores and mail order catalogs.
Greyhounds are very smart dogs and usually catch on very quickly when you follow this housebreaking process, if problems persist there may be another reason for them and it's a good idea to get your dog in to see a vet to rule out a urinary tract infection, or worms. That way you can be sure that you are dealing with a behavior issue and not a medical one.
* Greyhounds usually tell you when they have to go out. Sometimes we are not able to recognize the signs. Some of the signs are as follows:
* Pacing or Walking in circles
* Walking to the door and looking back at you
* Standing by the door
* Listlessness or restlessness, inability to settle down
* Barking, Whining, Staring at you or the door
* Holding up a sign that says "OUT" - OK, so I haven't personally seen this but like I said they ARE very smart!
When your dog indicates a need to go outside, respond immediately, don't wait for the next television commercial or a break in activity, their success depends on your setting them up to succeed, if you make them wait and they have an accident, it's not their fault it's yours for not taking them out as soon as they asked.
Housebreaking Trouble Shooting Checklist
(click HERE for a printable version)
Having trouble with accidents in the house? Review this checklist carefully and see if there is something you're not doing. Call us if you need more information or advice.
____1. Are you keeping your pet confined when not at home and within your sight when you are at home?
____2. Are you limiting the "bathroom" walks to 10 -15 minutes?
____3. Are you walking after meals and at the appropriate times?
____4. Did you keep a chart/diary for at least 5 days?
____5. Are you feeding your dog at the same time every day, measuring his/her food with a measuring cup to assure accuracy, not overfeeding, keeping snacks to a minimum, and not giving table scraps?
____6. Is everyone in the family cooperating with the housebreaking effort?
____7. Are you adding to your pets confusion by punishing him/her after the fact for accidents?
____8. Are you certain your dog isn't sick and needs to be examined by a veterinarian? (Worms or urinary tract infections are easily cured but can interfere with housebreaking)
____9. Are you removing the scent of your pets urine and/or stool from the affected area? ( We recommend Nature’s Miracle cleaning solution.)
____10. If you have a fenced yard, are you going outside with your pet so that you know whether or not it has relieved itself?
____11. Are you praising your dog when it eliminates outside?
____12. Are you giving your pet too much freedom in the house?
Still having problems??? Please call TRGAP at (401) 781-6231.
Many new adopters, whether it's their first or their tenth Greyhound, try to arrange to get their dog on a Friday (or whatever day begins their weekend), and some take a few days off work when their new hound arrives so they can spend plenty of time with him the first few days. This is a VERY good idea. If your new dog arrives in a strange home with strange people and strange dogs (or worse - no other dogs) on Sunday night and on Monday finds himself all alone all day for the first time in his life, chances are he's going to be a very unhappy hound. And he's likely to look for some way to get your attention and express his displeasure.
Adjustment seems to be hardest, as a rule, for the first Greyhound, especially if there are no other dogs and if the humans are away from home a good part of the day. Remember, Greyhounds have been surrounded by a LOT of their own kind and spent most of their days with humans for their whole lives. Very few of them like to be left alone. So separation anxiety is not uncommon for new/first Greyhounds. It can manifest itself in many undesirable ways, including howling and/or destructive behavior. The best "cure" is often (but not always) the addition of a second Greyhound to the family. For more information about Separation Anxiety please visit this web site: www.greytdogs.com
The most effective way to train your greyhound is to join a basic obedience group class. These are inexpensive and fun. Use your safety collar/humane choke or a nylon choker. Please do not use a metal choker on a greyhound as this could damage their throat and thin skin.
The following are some training insights on greyhounds:
Sitting - Greyhounds do not like to sit, their long backs and well-developed muscles make this an uncomfortable position for them. Coming close is good!! Doing it is great!!!
Recall - Greyhounds can be taught to come when called. But don't ever be fooled into thinking they will come every time you call them (this applies to all breeds). No dog can be trusted to respond 100% of the time. Please read: Trust, A Dangerous Disease
Praise - Greyhounds respond very well to praise. This praise should always be verbal, accompanied with physical patting and/or a treat. The verbal praise should be done in a high pitch voice. Also, dogs *do* read facial expressions, so smile when your dog does well and frown when it could have been done better. Use a small piece of a treat as a reward for desired behavior.
Reprimands - They should always be done in a low-pitched voice. The command should be NO!!! This will be sufficient to train any greyhound. Remember hitting teaches a dog aggression.
There are many retired racers that have earned obedience titles. Just remember that training must be done with a light, encouraging hand and leash rules always apply, even with a highly trained greyhound!
SLEEPING ACCOMMODATIONS - Because of the way Greyhounds are built they need a soft place to sleep and nap. Hard floors, or even carpeted floors without good cushioning, can cause pressure sores. Of course your couch and your bed will usually be your hounds napping spot of choice, but even if you allow it, your hound should still have a space/bed that he can call his own.
Walmart & Sam's Club offer good, sturdy, thick dog beds for about $25.00 to $30.00. Be sure to buy the largest size. Another option is to provide the dog with one or two comforters that it can "nest" in, these can often be purchased very cheaply at garage sales or rummage sales.
HEAT and COLD - Greyhounds have very little body fat therefore, they are more sensitive to extremes in both heat and cold than other dogs. This is not to imply that they can't live happily in a variety of climates. Thousands of Greyhounds are flourishing in homes from Canada to Florida. But you do need to be aware of their needs regarding the weather.
Greyhounds are inside dogs. They should never be kept outdoors without shelter for extended periods of time. Racing kennels are usually carefully climate controlled, as should your Greyhound's environment be. In summer care must be taken not to let your hound overheat. Sometimes this might mean restricting his exercise on very hot days. Even though they may feel uncomfortable from the heat, they will still often want to run, not knowing it can hurt them. If you walk your dog, you should do it during the coolest parts of the day in summer. Basically, if it's uncomfortable for you, it will be even more uncomfortable and possibly dangerous for him. You should familiarize yourself with the signs of heat exhaustion and heat stroke and be prepared to deal with it fast if you should see those signs in your dog.
Even while resting a Greyhound can become dangerously overheated during extended periods of exposure to high temperatures. Your dog should always have access to a comfortable resting place in the shade during hot weather. A cool coat or spray bottle of cool water to be sprayed directly on the dog is also handy, especially on walks.
CLOTHING? - In winter many people dress their Greyhounds in special cold weather wardrobes. If your dog is only going out to take care of business, he probably will not need to get dressed up for a quick trip outdoors. If you plan on taking an extended walk with your dog in cold weather, a warm coat becomes more of a necessity than a fashion statement. The rule of thumb is that if you'd be cold without a coat, your Greyhound will be cold, too.
Muscle is dense and heavy. Unless your dog is getting a lot of hard exercise, he is naturally going to lose some of those muscles. If you try to add five pounds to your dog's weight too quickly you may actually be adding ten pounds of fat as it replaces the muscle weight. This is likely to be unhealthy for the dog. Excess weight and fat cause unnecessary strain on their hearts (shortening their life expectancy) and also result in many forms of lameness.
A good quality kibble is fine as a basic diet. Good quality does not necessarily mean expensive, nor does expensive necessarily mean good quality. Look for one with meat as the first ingredient and with no soy products. Some recommendations are: Nutro Lamb & Rice, Iams Lamb & Rice, Exceed Lamb & Rice (from Sam's Club), Pro Plan or Science Diet are also acceptable. Foods that have dyes, sugars or other additives listed should be avoided such as Kibbles-n-Bits.
Adding various veggies makes it more interesting and tastier for your dog and adds nutrients without adding a lot of calories. Low fat yogurt (plain) and cottage cheese are excellent and yogurt has the added benefit of helping to reduce excess gas. Greyhounds usually seem to have less stomach upsets if they are fed twice a day rather than once.
If you feed dry kibble, it should be moistened thoroughly. This helps prevent choking as the dog eats, and also helps prevent bloat (which can kill quickly) afterwards when the dry food absorbs stomach fluids and expands. Also, to avoid deadly torsion, never let your dog run or play too hard right after eating. If your greyhound tends to eat it's food very rapidly, you may want to place a racquet ball or other type of rubber ball of similar size in it's dish with it's food or turn another small dish upside down inside the larger feeding dish, either of which will slow the dog down while eating and should help keep it from gulping food and thus swallowing air.
Too many treats can be like giving your dog an extra meal without realizing it. But a couple of crunchy dog "cookies" or raw carrots each day, especially right after eating soft food, are very good for their teeth and make a nice treat for the dog.
Feeding Your Greyhound
TRGAP strongly recommends that you restrict your dog’s exercise before and after eating. The following are the guides for feeding:
* Strenuous exercise - There should be no strenuous exercise, 2 hours before and 2 hours after a meal. Strenuous exercise can induce bloat.
* Feeding Balance - Feed 2 meals per day of even amounts (for example 2-3 cups a.m. and 2-3 cups p.m.)
* Weight feeding guide - The average female of 60 lb. should eat approximately 2-4 cups per day. The average male of 70 lb. should be fed approximately 3-5 cups per day. The amount fed depends upon how much exercise the dog is getting, less exercise = less food, more = more.
* Gain weight - If your dog needs to gain weight, increase the amount of food by a quarter of a cup per feeding and observe for 2 to 3 weeks. The desired weight gain should take place.
* Lose weight - If your dog needs to lose weight, decrease the amount of food by a quarter of a cup per feeding and observe for 2 to 3 weeks until the dog reaches "fit" weight. Remember, "Don't change the type of food just the amount." You can substitute that quarter cup with a quarter cup of cooked green beans; they add bulk and keep the dog feeling like they had a full meal without adding extra fat or calories.
* Treats - Limit the number of doggie treats per day. If you use the large biscuits, break in half, dogs like to get treats. They don't care how big or small the treat.
* Prozyme - Prozyme is a great additive. It helps the coat grow in quickly and aids in digestion.
* Fresh water - Fresh water should be available at feeding times. Do not let your dog drink excessively after eating. Drinking too much water to quickly can cause bloat. Remember, " What goes in must come out".
* Gags - If your greyhound gags on the dry food add some warm water. Also, gently massage its throat and soothe it. It is best to slowly wean your dog off the wet food as a good crunch does wonders for the teeth.
* Inhales - If your dog really inhales its food, use a Jell-O mold or a bundt pan for its dish. The center hole forces the dog to eat more slowly.
* Neck strain - To avoid strain on the dog’s neck you can elevate their food dish.
A good rule of thumb is that your greyhound should gain 5 lbs over the weight that he/she raced at, but this can vary from dog to dog due to body type and muscle density and is just a guide, overall appearance should be the deciding factor. You should always be able to see the tip of the backbone and a bit of rib on a greyhound. Also, there should be an area that indents between the ribs and tail. A greyhound should never look like a sausage!
Allowing your greyhound to gain too much weight can create health problems. Their bone structure cannot support extra pounds. The more excess baggage a dog has to carry around, the less it wants to move and the chunkier it becomes.
EXERCISE
Greyhounds don't need to run constantly. It's nice when they can, as long as they are fit enough to run without hurting themselves, and they do love it. Many greyhounds live happily in apartments with several daily walks and maybe an occasional trip a securely fenced area as their only exercise.
Greyhounds are bred for short bursts of speed and short runs. If they are provided a yard large enough for a few sprints, they're happy and will spend most of the rest of the day sleeping.
Diarrhea / Loose Stool Diarrhea can happen with any dog. Some of the common causes of diarrhea are table scraps, cat food, stress, grass and garbage picking. All of these are controllable and care should be taken to avoid in the future.
The following is a simple schedule TRGAP recommends to combat loose stool / normal diarrhea:
* Withhold food for 12 hours and limit the water intake.
* Give your dog either Immodium or regular strength Pepto Bismol at the child dosage once.
* Cook white rice.
* After everything has cooled make a mixture of 1cup of rice to 1/2 ration of your dog’s regular food for each feeding (twice a day). The mixture should be served at room temperature. The amount of food can be increased if the diarrhea stops.
Once the dog has had three consecutive days of firm stool you can begin to introduce more of their regular food into the mixture. The introduction should be gradual (Typically no increases over 1/2 cup regular food).
The following is a simple schedule recommended to combat blowout diarrhea:
* Take your dog to a veterinarian for a shot of anti-diarrhea medication.
* Withhold food for 24 hours and limit the water intake.
The following is a recommended process for reintroducing food after blowout diarrhea:
* Boil boneless chicken or ground hamburger and drain off the fat (shred the chicken).
Cook white rice.
The rule of thumb is: The dog must have 3 consecutive days of firm stools in order to Progress to the next level
Level 1 - Mix 2 cups cooked white rice and 1 cup cooked hamburger or chicken and add 1/4 cup of regular dog food. 3 days of firm stools, go to Level 2.
Level 2 - Mix 2 cups cooked white rice and 3/4 cup of cooked hamburger or chicken and 1/2 cup of regular dog food, 3 days of firm stools, go to Level 3.
Level 3 - Mix 1 3/4 cups cooked white rice and 112 cup of cooked hamburger or chicken and 314 cup of regular dog food. 3 days of firm stools, go to Level 4.
Level 4 - Mix 1 1/2 cups of cooked while rice and 1/4 cup of cooked hamburger or chicken and I cup of regular dog food. 3 days of firm stools, go to Level 5.
Level 5 - Mix 1 1/4 cups of cooked while rice and 1 1/4 cup of regular dog food. 3 days of firm stools, go to Level 6
Level 6 - Mix 1 cup cooked white rice and 1 1/2 cups of regular dog food. 3 days of firm stools, at the next feeding decrease the amount of cooked white rice by 1/4 cup and increase the amount of regular dog food by 1/4 cup.
Continue this regimen until your dog is back to their usual amount of dry dog food and then discontinue the rice. If at any time in this process your dog experiences diarrhea again you must go back to the cooked white rice & hamburger or chicken mixture only.
Note: For the first two feedings on the rice/hamburger or chicken mixture you may want to add regular strength Pepto-Bismol at the children’s dose.
Note: If the diarrhea does not slowdown, does not stop after three days, or you see blood in the stool contact your veterinarian immediately!!!
Pogo-ing: Bouncing/jumping up and down, over and over, in one place due to excitement. This is not the same as jumping up on people. They do it away from you. (Well, most of the time!)
Pogo-Dog: A dog who pogo's . . . a LOT!
Play-bow: Behind is in the air and forelegs are stretched out on the ground. Sometimes they'll sort of slap the ground with the forelegs. This is an invitation to play, or it can be a nice stretch after a nap in which case it is done much slower.
Cockroaching: (or Roaching): Lying on the back with all four legs in the air. Some say the legs must be perfectly straight, but I say 'poppycock-roach' to that!
Chip (or Chipping): No, not the kind you eat. Surely you've heard the old saying, 'Greyhounds are like potato chips, you can't have just one.' You haven't? Well you should have. Chipping is adopting another greyhound. You have room for just one more greyhound, don't you? Of course you do." To see our available dogs, click HERE!
Smiling: A greyhound's smile is rather unlike that of most other dogs. All dogs can smile, technically. But how many do you know that can actually grin? The act of smiling, or grinning, can actually be frightening to the uninitiated, but fear not! We aren't rabid, and we're not getting ready to rip anybody's throat out. It LOOKS like a snarl but it isn't. We pull our lips back, thus exposing our teeth, and...well...we SMILE! We're just letting you know how happy we are. For a mental image, think Jack Nicholson in "The Shining," or as the Joker from "Batman."
Eargasms: When rubbed just right, a greyhound will moan, groan and well, some of the boys will even get a wee bit excited, (see lipstick below) thus the term "eargasm". They dooooo like to have their ears rubbed.
Baboon Butt: Bare buns are what many greyhound behinds look like when they first come off of the track and when these bare buns are hauled in a truck in the winter on straw or hay, the dogs cheeks get all red and sore. This is 'baboon butt.'
Lipstick: Think of the particular anatomy of a male dog, ok, got that? Now, think of that same thing but in terms of a tube of red lipstick, with the lipstick sticking out of the tube . . . need I say more? This is common in un-neutered dogs right off the track or in response to intense stimuli, like ear rubs, sees Eargasms above.
Tuck: This refers to the greyhound shape, very narrow around the waistline with a large chest and ribcage. The "tuck" or "tuck up" is the area just in front of the rear legs where the greyhound is the thinnest.
Roo: AKA howling, but with style and even harmony! Greyhounds will sing together, in four-part harmony - get one started and a whole group will quickly follow suit if they are within earshot!
Needle Nose: Have you ever actually looked at a greyhound profile? They have loooong, needle like noses, with a pointy end, the better to greet you with. (see crotch rocket)
Crotch Rocket: In reference to the pointyness of greyhound noses, their most favorite place to put them while greeting you, is right in your . . . er - well, crotch
Cat safe: Is this obvious?
Nitting: A sign of affection. The dog's tiny front teeth are moved in a fast chomping motion against the beloved's skin. Varies from adorable to excruciating and probably won't produce a wearable sweater.
Nuticles: "Neuticles are...er..." Neuticles are prosthetic, er, 'boy parts,' for greyhounds that have been fixed. After all, we certainly don't want other boy dogs to think our boys are woosies or anything."
Countersurfing: Often a favorite indoor activity, next to sleeping or eating. Counter surfing is when a greyhound will reach up onto a counter (or other surface on which humans leave interesting tidbits) to either (a) steal something or (b) make sure there isn't anything there to steal. Because they are so tall, and have such long necks, this is a quite easy thing for them to do.
Bounceback (or Bounced): A dog that has been returned by its adopter. Often greyhounds that are "bounced" from their first home go on to find bliss in their second home.
Helicoptering: What some greys' tails do when they're especially happy. (Move in a circular motion, instead of side-to-side.) Some do this so rapidly they break open the end of their tails hitting it on walls or other objects. This can cause bleeding, but is a minor injury if cared for properly.
Sighthound: Sighthounds are dogs of the Greyhound type which hunt game by sight. Their focus on distant objects is very sharp. Please note that they also have an excellent sense of smell, but not as highly developed as the scent hounds, such as the Bloodhound.
Double Suspension Gallop: At high speeds, Greyhounds and some other sighthounds have two points at which all four feet are "suspended" in the air. One point is at the fully-extended stretch (or "bus" position). The other is when all four paws are closest together beneath the dog."
Forever home: Greyhounds that are retired and placed with adoption groups often times live the first part of their new lives in a foster home. This home volunteers their time to train the dog, feed them, care for them, nurse them and love them. The family that finally adopts that dog, is the "forever home" and the foster home is only a temporary one.
Gotcha Day: Adoption day.